Well more a cool tub.
Have been experimenting of how to ensure pots that had dried out absorbed enough water.
The plants shown ,prior to this treatment, seemed beyond saving. All dry, leaves yellow stems like straw .Ready for the compost heap.
Now they are looking OK.They have all been debudded to conserve energy.
Any peat based compost is very hard to re –wet ,in my experience. Water just goes straight through the growing medium and never really wets the compost.
If one drops the whole pot into the tub then air is expelled and water rushes in to fill the space.
It is quite a quick way to ensure pots are fully wet, as when bubbles stop coming up to the surface no air is left.
Draining the pot by removal forces some air back in.
The only downside to this method is if the plant has any disease it could spread to another plant when that plant was ”dunked”.
I am still experimenting as, using a hose pipe, one is never certain about how much water is available to your plants.
I never water plants placed in the soil as when I have done root rots etc seem to follow, not all cultivars seem affected, but I have in previous years lost some good plants by watering dry soil.
Far better for those that are going to survive the heat to get their roots down in search of moisture, a mulch or too following rain will help.
Have also just learnt that all fungus diseases of violas require warm temps and at least eight hours of the plant being wet to established themselves.
This means that watering in the morning is going to prevent the leaves etc from staying moist for this number of hours,wheras watering in the evening will ensure the right conditions for mildews, leaf spots etc.
So I have now changed my routine as this year the problem of leaf spotting etc has been very high.
It is too early to be sure but will monitor the situation closely to see if it does make a difference.